Crafting Body Appreciation

A TNT pattern, or tried and true pattern, is one that you sew again and again. It could be because you found that unicorn of a pattern that fits out of the package without alteration, or because you took the time to make a toile and adjust the pattern to get the fit you want for your body. It is usually something that speaks to your style so much or is such a staple that you just want more.

I think there is disagreement over how many times you must make a pattern before it truly qualifies as a tried and true. Is 2 times enough? Should it be more like 4 or 5 times? Do you need to manipulate it in different ways – different types of fabric or design tweaks?

I don’t have any official TNT patterns yet, but I do have patterns that I have made once and definitely want to make again. I am considering these TNT contenders, and this month we have added a new contender to the list!

Helen’s Closet June Pants

Instead of keeping you in suspense, let’s get right to it. My new TNT contender is the June Pants from Helen’s Closet. This style of wide-leg elastic waisted pants is pretty much my summer uniform. I usually have an active rotation of 5-6 pairs in different colors and crops each year. To date, these pants have all been ready-to-wear, but dare I say, me-mades seem poised to take over.

I made the pants in size 26 with no adjustments. I know the pattern suggests picking based on your hip measurement, but my waist measurement always puts me in a large size than my hips. The last thing I want is any tightness in the waist of my pants.

I decided not to adjust to a smaller size at the hips and I think it is just fine for this style of pants. I want to wear them a few times before I fully determine no adjustments are desired, but so far so good. For this version I included the pockets (because pockets are the best) and I skipped the drawstring.

The fabric I used was thrifted, reclaimed from someone’s me-made shower curtain. It is a bit stiffer than the typical flowy linen or lighter cotton I reach for in this style pants, but I also appreciate the structure and think it adds more variety to my closet.

I already mentioned in my May Sewing Plans post that I plan to make these again perhaps in a full length version.  

Love Notions Vivace Dolman Shirt

Speaking of those May plans, the fabric I have earmarked for my next pair of June Pants is actually the same fabric I used to make the Vivace Dolman Shirt.  It is a light, chambray-ish material reclaimed from a king size duvet cover (which means I have a LOT of it).

This shirt was another win in the monthly makes column. It was also a bit of a sewing miracle (more on that in a minute).

I made a size 2X with no modifications based on the pattern advice to choose your size based on your high bust measurement. My other measurements would have pushed me in to a larger size but since the finished garment has so much ease, I decided to keep it easy (why is it that 2 seconds to draw a line blending sizes can feel like such a monumental task?).

I do like the fit of this shirt as is. If I make it again perhaps I would add just a touch of extra ease through the bodice. One note I made for next time was to keep the notch cuts more shallow. Love Notions uses a 3/8” seam allowance and the pattern notches are a little too deep as printed along the neckline banding. There are a couple of spots that if you look closely you can see a small snip in my neck line.

Oh, and don’t think I forgot about the sewing miracle! I literally used the last of my bobbin thread on the last stitch of the garment. I went to cut the bobbin thread and noticed this cute little thread tail already on the underside of the garment – bobbin thread perfection! I gasped out loud. I will likely never be blessed with such timing again.

Cashmerette Kersoe Top

Out of my April makes the Kersoe Top is my least favorite. I think there are a couple of contributing factors, the first being my fabric choice.

This is a pretty stiff cotton (reclaimed from a sheet!) and I used it for both the top and the lining. The resulting shirt has a bit more structure than I care for. The bust darts also aren’t in the right spot but I think that is more related to the fabric and how the stiffness makes the garment stand above my shoulders with any movement, even with plenty of ease in the back of the garment.

The second thing I don’t love is it gives me strong corporate office wear vibes. Perfect to pair with a cardigan or blazer in an overly air-conditioned soulless cube. Without going into details, I have less than fond memories of the years I spent working in corporate America and this top triggered a bit of a PTSD reaction.

I honestly think it is how the lining gives such a clean finish to the top – it reads as formal to me. That said I think the burrito method of assembly to get the clean finish and attached the lining is so cool, a bit of sewing magic!

Needless to say this top paired with my June pants is not the powerhouse summer outfit I thought I might be.